Studio Lighting Series – Light Ratios

This is another installment of a long series of articles shot and composed with the help of professional photographer Karl Leopold at ImagesForever.net in Melbourne Beach, Florida. Karl is one of the top photographers in the area and president of the Atlantic Professional Photographers Association and graciously opened his studio up to us for this series.

Three point lighting
Today we focus on the distance difference between d1 and d2

Light ratios is one of those subjects that makes people’s eyes glaze over because it’s technical and there’s math involved. That’s why I started with the more fun Three Point Lighting instead. But to really understand studio lighting, we have get into light ratios.

In order to give a portrait depth and character, we control amount of light and the shadows. To keep a face from looking flat, we change the ratio between the amount of light coming from the main light, the key, and the secondary light, called the fill.

When applying light ratios to the subject of three point lighting, most often it will be applied to the ratio between the key light and fill, but not always as we’ll find out in later articles. Each f-stop difference equates to roughly half as much light reaching the subject. So the key and fill being perfectly matched would be a 1:1 lighting ratio.

Knock one stop off the fill either by cutting the flash power or moving it farther from the subject and that gives you a 2:1 ratio. Take 2 stops off the fill and you’ll have a 4:1 ratio.

As discussed above, you don’t usually want the key and fill perfectly balanced on a 1:1 ratio. The most common ratios used in portrait photography are a 3:1 and 4:1 ratio. So if someone told you to set up a three point lighting set with a full power 3:1 key/fill ratio at f/11 and -2 stops on the hair light, you’d know what to do. You’d set your key power to give you a metered f/11 at the subject and the fill -1.5 stops, which would be between f/5.6 and f/8, technically f/6.7 on the half-stop scale. The hair light would be two full stops less at f/5.6.

Because you need a 3:1 ratio at full power, you’d know that you’ll have to move the fill farther from the subject and use the light meter to gauge the distance. Since he’s been shooting portraits in the same location for years, Karl has marks on the floor where the fill goes for a 3:1 ratio and a string from the key to the subject for the proper distance for f/11. Once you get in the ballpark, most photographers are going to eyeball the subtle changes anyway.

The old full stop calculations are starting to give way to modern cameras that are graduated in ⅓ stop increments (1/3 EV), which yields a slightly different f-stop series, but since we’re fixing the camera at f/11, it doesn’t matter.

Let’s go back to our three light setup graphic. Notice the fill is much farther from the subject than the key? That spot corresponds to a 3:1 metered ratio with two identical floor flash units set to full power. Why would you want a full power 3:1 ratio instead of just knocking back the fill power? Maybe you want bracket the photos by raising the ratio to 5:1 and 7:1 and the easiest way to do that is just to cut the fill power instead of moving it and shooting a meter reading.

ratio series
We switched to dark clothing on a light background to make it easier to focus on the facial lighting.

You can see in the photo the differences are subtle but noticeable. We went with a white background and darker clothing so you can focus on the lighting changes to the face. As you can see, by the time we get to 7:1, it’s looking a little dark on fill side. Not a flattering look for women.

Travel Photography Tips

busy airport photo
Picture yourself trudging down this concourse loaded with camera gear - by Brian Robert Marshall

Tis the season when families consider making the trek through wild weather and brave crowded airports to spend the holidays with family and friends. Travel photography presents its own set of challenges and a shortened equipment list. Here are my tips to get great pictures while not losing the feel of being on vacation.

Pack Light

Hauling a full-size DSLR on vacation travel is a non-starter for many people, even some photographers. These days you don’t have to with cameras like the Nikon J1 and the Sony NEX-5 (compare).

With these new compact, mirrorless cameras sporting large sensors in a small frame camera, there’s little reason to drag your full size DSLR along on vacation or family get togethers, unless you’re really a glutton for neck strain.

Modern Zoom Lenses Mean Fewer To Pack

The zoom range of some modern lenses means fewer you need to carry. With lenses like Tamron’s new 18-270mm zoom lens you don’t need to bring the bag. That is a crazy long zoom range. Criticized for having a slightly louder focus motor than the Canon lenses, I’ll put up with a little noise if it means I don’t have to carry a lens bag through a gate change in Atlanta.

Speaking of Bags, Get a Good One

A well-constructed padded bag is a necessity for your camera gear. Look for names like Lowepro, Canon, Think Tank and Domke. Don’t forget about the new sling-style bags that look like bike messenger bags. Those are super easy on your neck and leave both hands free for carrying your other luggage.

Take a Spare Data Card

Nothing can spoil the holiday mood like a data card going bad. I’ve had two SanDisk cards fail on me, one in the middle of a once-in-a-lifetime event. Now I always have an emergency spare data card taped to my camera strap, besides the spare card. If it’s in a bag, it can get lost. If it’s in a pocket it can fall out. Taped to my camera strap is the only place I know it will be with me where ever I happen to be shooting.

Spare Batteries

I carry a pack of AA batteries with me all the time and always have a spare camera battery charged and ready. There’s an unwritten rule in nature that camera batteries must always run out at the most inconvenient moment. I pretty much use the same rule for my camera battery as I do for the gas tank in the car: Never below one quarter. Newer batteries don’t develop charge memory like the old NiCads, so there’s less incentive to push it. When my camera battery gets below half, I swap it out and put the other one on the charger.

Plan ahead and make a minimal investment in some decent gear and you’ll have much easier travel experience and enjoyable holiday.

Break Out of The Holiday Greeting Card Rut

holiday photo
Break out of the holiday card rut this year

Instead of sending a pre-printed holiday greeting card that gets displayed for a while then whisked into a box somewhere, think about shaking things up a little this year. Instead of a seasonal card, think about getting a print that will last for years and with a chic aesthetic that would look good in any modern decor.

The range of materials and printing processes available today are nothing short of amazing. You can can choose from textured paper, glass, even aluminum panels.

Here are my suggestions to replace the tired old holiday cards.

Mini Floating Gallery Blocks

Instead of the larger size gallery blocks, send something that will fit on a desk or hang in a smaller space in a hallway. Floating gallery blocks are chic, modern, and classy. They make a great showcase for your photography and fit with any decor.

Metal Tree Ornaments

Have your favorite photos turned into attractive holiday decorations. An interesting idea is to commemorate major life events with metallic print ornaments and watch the progression of change over the years.

The advantage to prints on metal is they last nearly indefinitely.

Image Boxes

Useful and decorative, image boxes put your photos on stylish and useful storage boxes. Also a clever substitute for wrapping paper.

FractureMe Glass Prints

Another print option that lasts virtually forever. Prints on glass that really stand out, are stylish, and easy to hang. They come in wall size and desk size prints and the prices are fairly reasonable.

Hopefully this gets you thinking about ways to break up the holiday greeting card monotony in time to do something about it before the holidays.

Studio Lighting Basics – Three Point Lighting

This is the first installment of a long series of articles shot and composed with the help of professional photographer Karl Leopold at ImagesForever.net in Melbourne Beach, Florida. Karl is one of the top photographers in the area and president of the Atlantic Professional Photographers Association and graciously opened his studio up and lent his expertise to us for this series.

the basic three point lighting setup
The basic three-point lighting setup

While we’re going to start with an overview of basic three point studio lighting, this series may jump around a bit as basic lighting touches on several peripheral topics that are key to understanding how good portraits are composed along with studio lighting.

First, the equipment we had to work with:

key and fill spacing
The Key is the black Fomex on the right and the fill is the Octodome on the left. Please note that flower leis are not stock equipment on Alien Bees

Our key light is an Alien Bees 800 in a Fomex rectangular soft box

Our fill is an Alien Bees 800 in a 48 inch Octodome

The hair light is an Ultra 1800 fitted with a grid screen on a boom

Throughout the shoot we used only a single modeling light on the Fomex soft box.

We maintained a consistent distance to the subject the old-fashioned way, with a string to the center of the key soft box.

meter check
Start off with a meter check to make sure we're in the ballpark

All the lights are on PocketWizard Plus remotes and the transmitter on my Canon 7D was a PocketWizard MiniTTL. The lens was a stock Canon 28-135mm zoom set to my closest eyeball approximation to 85mm.

All camera settings were manual unless otherwise stated, we used 1/125 of second for a shutter speed through the entire series. The f stop varied as I’ll explain in the article.

check distance
Karl checking distance the old fashioned way - So we didn't have to do meter checks constantly

I did minimal post processing adjustments on the pictures so you can see the difference in the lighting. Standard color correction and cropping is all that was done.

The Setup

While the layout of a basic three point setup is fairly straightforward, it’s actually a little tricky to get everything working together properly.

First we moved the key 10 degrees off the camera axis and shot a key only test. That’s actually not bad, if a little flat.

front key only
This is the key only, about 10 degrees off the camera axis - A little flat but not bad

Next we added in the fill and you can see that gave us much more natural looking lighting and skin tones, but our subject’s hair looks a little flat. That’s where the hair light comes in.

As you can see the hair light really helps separate the subject from the background. It highlights her hair, but also her back shoulder, which changes the entire character of the photo and makes the background more distant.

 

fill plus key
This is adding the fill - As you can see it yields a much more natural looking light
key, fill, plus hair light
What a difference the hair light makes! See how it separates the subject from the background

Tips For Better Golden Hour Shooting

golden hour photo
Golden hour is officially 6 degrees above the horizon to 6 degrees below - By Phil Sangwell

The term “golden hour” is somewhat of a misnomer as the actual time may be somewhat less or more than an hour, depending on where you live. When you’re in the middle of shooting and trying to find the perfect moment, it sometimes seems to fly by in just a few minutes. One thing is for sure, when you really need the shot it will never be long enough.

Golden hour is another one of those areas where video and photography intersect. If you’ve ever been on a movie set late in the day, there will be one person obsessing, “We’re losing the light!” every time shooting stops. That would be the DP, or DOP in the U.K., the person responsible for the videography and camera work and they would be in a hurry to capture as much footage as possible before losing that wonderfully warm late day lighting.

The technical definition of “golden hour” are the times from when the sun is 6 degrees above the horizon, until it is 6 degrees below the horizon. That wonderful reddish gold color comes from sunlight passing through more atmosphere before striking the ground and more of the light in the blue spectrum being scattered, leaving behind reds and gold. Aside from the color temperature, there’s also a difference in the quality of the light. Shadows are less distinct, the lines between colors less obvious.

These days there are some wonderful web sites that will take the guesswork out of golden hour, where ever you happen to live. iPhone and iPad users can also find apps that will pinpoint morning and late day golden hour times where you are. A few minutes research will save a lot of time standing around waiting for the light.

Tips For Golden Hour Shooting

You can maximize your shooting time at the end of the day with a few simple tips.

1) Bring a monopod or tripod – You’re working with fading light and your exposure times will get progressively longer as the light fades. The shutter speed jumps can sneak up on you in rapidly changing lighting conditions.

2) Turn off AWB – Turn off your camera’s Automatic White Balance. As the color temperature of the light around you changes, your camera may be tempted think you’re in a place with incandescent lights and try to color correct the results.

3) Bring an external flash – If you have one, bring it. There are many situations where foreground subjects will be underexposed, or you’ll lose the quality of the background light with a long exposure. Don’t hesitate to try a shorter exposure and fill in with an external flash as appropriate.

4) Consider gels for your flash – If you want to try and match your fill flash to the warmer late day lighting, consider covering the fill flash with a warm up gel.

5) Look for silhouette opportunities – Take advantage of underexposed foreground another way by exposing for the ambient light and silhouette your subject.

There are lots of neat experiments you can try with late day lighting. Plan ahead, shoot fast, and enjoy those golden rays!