I’m not necessarily suggesting you wear makeup yourself, although that might be an improvement for some of you mugs, along with shaving and a clean shirt, but you really do need to understand makeup basics for portrait clients and models.

Software has come a long way and most makeup mistakes and oversights can be corrected in post.  Even at that, it’s hard to beat a really professional makeup artist and I like to capture the best quality product I can in the camera before turning to post-processing wizardry.

I miss the days when a shoot included a hair stylist and makeup artist.  You can still find those on really big shoots on a commercial set, but these days it needs to be a big job. More often models are doing their own makeup and the experienced ones know exactly how to make theirs look perfect on camera.

Newer models and portrait clients may need some guidelines.  I’m always surprised at how few women really do their makeup right.  For some of you it might be worthwhile to publish makeup guidelines on your web site.

Matte Good, Shiny Bad

Whether it’s base, eye liner, lipstick or sealer, anything that creates a shine is going to present problems under strobes and studio lights.

A shiny base and sealers can look greasy under strobes and I’ve never had good luck getting lip gloss to look right without covering my lights with reams of diffuser material.  It’s even hard to clean up in post.

You’ll get better results all around going with flatter matte finishes and avoid translucent powders.

Match The Liner and Lipstick

Some women opt for more contrasting colors between lip liner and lipstick, which is fine in a dimly lit club, but is going to look cartoonish under strobes.  For portraits and model work, match those colors.

Powder For The Camera

I actually have a favorite powder, which is MAC Select Sheer Loose Powder in NC 30.  It’s got a slightly yellow tint that photographs better than translucent powders.Keep in mind when you request that powder, unless your talent already has it, that stuff is $25 a container.  Don’t insist on it without being aware of the tab.

The downside for translucent powders is they can make a subject look pale and sick.  I’ve never missed with that MAC Select powder over a matte base.

Watch The Under Eye Concealer

Under eye concealer is what’s used to hide dark circles under the eyes.  I’ve had to use concealer and a neutral powder on some men, too.  A little puffy looking is better than looking like a cat burglar.

If your talent or client is going to use under eye concealer, make sure they blend the daylights out of it or it will show and, because it’s partially translucent, it’s a time vacuum to fix in post.  Blend it and blend it again and check ti with one or two test shots.

Avoid Dark Eye Liner Colors

That’s another one of those habits that looks good going out but can take a turn for the worse under strobes.  Dark eyeliner isn’t going to make your subject look goth, it’s going to make them look like a raccoon with a heroin habit.  If that’s the look you’re going for, fine.

Lighter eye liner colors will make the eyes stand out and be kinder to imperfections.

That said, I have seen dark eyeliner used to dramatic effect, but it was bold and deliberate in its application.

Natural Light Makeup Table

If you have a big window in your studio, put your makeup table in front of that instead of trying to light it.  Not only will makeup flaws be easier to spot, but I know one photographer who used it to attract new portrait customers by putting the makeup table in the front window.

Here’s how the pros do it.